That's a real long shot, but it's possible. As for wiring if I remember right you just need a red wire that plugged into the back or your original distributor which is your ignition hot wire, and two wires that go to a fuel relay on your firewall and I believe that they run your fuel gauge inside. These adapter plates automatically adjust for altitude changes and do not need tuning adjustments for changing conditions. Note: Not legal for use or sale in any state complying with California regulations. There's an article at one of the hotrod magazines that used scoggin dickey heads vortec ported + and detailed what they did to make about 450hp. Also check and see if the manifold has the vacuum hook ups you will need for your brake booster. If your running your original in-tank fuel pump you just need a fuel pressure regulator and set it anywhere from 5-9psi on the main line that you run into your carb.
Or you could slot out a manifold and make your own tapered shims from thick wall steel tubing and use a slightly larger flat washer on top to hide them. One ancilliary you'll need to replace is the distributor. Still have more work to do. I recommend fuel delivery from the injectors is insufficient. This could've caused junk to build up in the tank, and get stuck in the filter.
I'm doing this right now. There are tuning options for earlier systems, just not as easily available. Frankly, everything is a long shot at this point. Thanks for the pictures send anything else you might to me if you would. I suspected a faulty ground strap so I confirmed a quality ground from battery to engine block to chassis to cab and even grounded the exhaust pipe single wire o2. You can buy a book on the swap you want to do. Post Reply A swap will work out fine if you don't plan on getting it inspected again, or think you will be able to pass emissions with a carb.
Nothing particularly complicated to the wiring, either. On a cold start it's running in open loop pre-programmed tables, no reference to the O2. Please excuse the bad audio, I am working on redoing it. It had a computer controlled comp cam, 11:1 dome pistons, roller rockers, headers and a few other things that weren't as major. Post Reply Get rid of the 4l60e and grt either a 700 r 4 or a th350 there not computer cintroled. With a carb all i would have to do is turn the idle up a few rpm, and lean out the mixture a bit.
Do a google search for vortec heads. This is not as easy as just picking where 1 should be as many times someone has installed the distributor in such a way that 1 is in a different location… Not a good idea to even try that one. This is the most thorough cleaning method, but the expense of the equipment necessary makes it impractical for the do-it-yourselfer. I know everyone is quick to blame the O2 sensor, but have you replaced it? The stock fuel system does use a return line, so the fuel pressure regulator will need provisions for this. I chose the vortec heads because they are thought to be the best heads around right now for sbc's. Sometimes they get pinched or broken inside the insulation and you can't see it. I bolted it on and cut every wire that went to the computer, and threw the rest away.
It involves forcing a liquid cleaner through the injectors at the same pressure that fuel is pushed through them. Nothing you have posted leads me to believe the engine has mechanical problems of any kind. Check with the cam manufacturer of your choice for a modern camshaft that can improve performance. You shouldn't have any problems using that motor. That or find the catsting numbers and they will tell you if you have a big block. No leaks, motor runs good, and parts were cheap or free.
My first engine I built was a tbi set up. I'm looking at distributor and coil options at this point. Just because those sensors are new does not mean that they are working properly. As required with any engine change, could have caused damage to some of the wires. Reading forums and trying to get a general idea of what is good an what is not from god-knows-who and know-it-alls, not saying anyone here but in general.
Aftermarket block hugger headers also increases performance and retains the ease of installation into classic pickup trucks due to cross-member clearance. I'm more concerned about a higher torque rating rather than high horsepower. The transmission is a bolt-in replacement for the 4L60E, but your going to need a stock replacement or adjustable aftermarket throttle kick-down cable. A shorted or grounded Coolant sensor can cause it to run rich. Speed density systems get very grouchy when you add camshafts that do not make the same amount of vacuum as the stock one did. I gave up on the original slow ecm in my 89 a long time ago. If I were in your shoes though and on a budget, I'd refresh the block and port the heads if you're comfortable doing that on your own.